Savaneta by the Sea
"Un Dushi Bida"
 

Text by Reverend Robert Gibson

Photography by Steve Keith

Island Temptations abound and satisfaction can be found along the southern coast of Aruba in the one time capital and sleepy fishing village of Savaneta. Along the coastal road that winds its way from the back side of the airport to the gates of the Dutch Marine Base, Savaneta sits as a reminder of the real Aruba. Day trippers, islanders, bird enthusiasts, fisherman, travelers, tourists, and nostalgic dreamers can find, experience, and savor one of the few slices left of true Aruban life. Cunucu houses, salt ponds, mangrove swamps, coconut trees, idyllic reefs, shallows, flats, docks, pelicans, piers, Creole fishing boats, humpback ridges and hills outlining the inland skyline, Venezuelan mountains and jungles visible now and again across the Caribbean expanse—all this and much more can be captured by taking the low and slow road from Oranjestad.

Doing something and nothing all at the same time is a favorite pursuit of those in search of a getaway, a much needed escape from the pressures and complexities of modern day life and commercial madness. Whether for an hour, day, week, month, or the rest of your life, a simple fifteen minute ride from downtown can put you right into the ebb and flow of the seas that surround us. Try a little Savaneta mental flossing, a painless therapeutic experience that allows natural beauty to be combined with human imprints. It will transport you to a better frame of mind, a simpler outlook and set of values, as well as provide insight into a lifestyle that still exists. A favorite Savaneta expression in Papiamento says it all: "un dushi bida!" (one sweet life!).

Your experience should begin at the beginning, that is, on the low road as you enter Savaneta. A beautiful example of Aruban architecture, a Cunucu house, sits across from and next to the mangrove swamp and old salt ponds that are now home to a wide variety of shorebirds. Herons, ducks, egrets, terns, pipers, rails, pelicans, and even the occasional flamingo, are just a few of the numerous species that you can view and photograph in this thriving sanctuary.

Next, go ahead and cross over the series of pipes that run parallel to the curving road. Check out the small beach and secluded siesta spots along the inside of the reef. Get your feet wet in the shallows and flats. Do a little wading and begin to let the serenity of Savaneta slip in. A couple of hundred yards further south, along the dirt road, a series piers and docks jut out into Commander's Bay like a bar graph display on an equalizer. Go ahead . . . sit on a dock of the bay, let time slip away . . .

There is something special about time alone on a dock, and there are more than enough docks in Savaneta to solo into solitude. Startling and sublime vistas proliferate in all directions. The view looking out over the reef and its channels, gaps, and reef shacks can every now and again be enhanced when the salt haze of the Caribbean horizon lifts and allows to materialize, as if by magic, a large mountain. This topographical marvel is a northern extension of the Venezuelan Andes that lies deep in the jungles of the old Spanish Main. In the opposite direction, the rolling hills of the Aruban interior majestically frame the blue sky. On the bay itself, numerous Creole boats and skiffs—occasionally interspersed with more modern hulls—rise, fall, and rock gently while tied or moored off to docks, piers, or rocky ledges.

These vessels and their owners represent the Savaneta fishing fleet; men from all walks of life who continue to ply the local waters in search of Barracuda, Dorado, Wahoo, Kingfish, Tuna, Grouper, Snapper, or other inshore and offshore specie that represent the bounty of the sea. Some are part-timers, some full-timers, some old-timers, and some are the next generation. They range in occupational background from accountants, contractors, businessmen, doctors, government workers, firemen, mechanics, and police officers, to postal workers, teachers, taxistas, truckers, students, and retirees. But, all share a common love for the living legacy and class leveler that has always breathed life into Savaneta.

Frigates, gulls, pelicans, and terns circle overhead, diving and dancing on air currents and soothing breezes. Church bells occasionally peal from the steeple of the neighborhood Catholic church reminding all of both the sacred and divine nature that is to be found here. Respect, reverence, and rejoicing are key life components that are blended together like one of Jimmy Buffet's famous boat drinks. Smooth, magnetic, refreshing, and powerful, they interact creating a cultural envelope and ambiance that is hard to beat.

Nowhere can this better be seen than at Zeerovers, the weigh station of Savaneta, where most of the daily catch ends up. Zeerovers is the heart of Savaneta by the Sea. No sign marks its location because none is desired nor needed. Zeerovers is a family-operated landmark tucked between Tyrone's goat herd, Charlie's chickens and guest house, and the Flying Fishbone. It is easy to find but hard to leave. It serves as the rhythm maker of the timeless way of life where everyone is welcomed as friend or family. Here goodwill ambassadors abound delighting all with Aruban hospitality and charm. The smells of the sea are mixed with varying aromas ranging from bacalau arepas to Cuban cigars. Throw in an eclectic mix of Typico Arubiano, Latino, Caribbean, and American music. Douse it with ample amounts of fish cutting, mongering, and storytelling. Add bits of news and daily gossip dispensed as cheaply as the cold drinks (local prices!), and one can quickly understand why this establishment is a magnetic hub of activity drawing patrons and fisherman to its confines from dawn to dusk and beyond.

The type and amount of fish fluctuate according to sea conditions and seasons. That's why they call it fishing not catching. It is a simple yet unpredictable vocation that employs numerous methods and mechanisms with the same goal. Whether it is with baited hand-lines and balloons, trolled ballyhoo or skirted tuna strips, rosarios, lures, rods and reels, or even winches, hookups are sought. From shore, dock, boat, or kayak, fishermen search for kilos of Neptune's fruit, irregardless of calm water or rough seas. When the day's labors are done all is copasetic because even a bad day of fishing beats a good day of just about anything else. Shoulders are shrugged and hopes of a better yield next time remind all of the eternal optimism associated with fishing.

Anyone can tap into this same frequency and wavelength. Both active participant and casual observer have the means to reach this tropical state of Caribbean nirvana. The path to oneness and harmony of the ready and righteous lies in one corner of Zeerover's, a unique area that is truly the gateway to Savaneta's magic . . . the "Fish Pit." It is here the daily catches are dragged from the dock, tossed, examined, discussed, debated, cleaned, weighed, and cut. Waves flow over the edge of the pit regularly washing down the concrete floor. Crabs feast and scurry about pinching scraps before the sea, fish, or birds can stake their claim. Watching the high art form of fish cutting practiced by Eddie, Iki, Chicki, and Paulito is a hypnotic act whose potency should not be overlooked or underestimated. Blades of all sizes and purposes are wielded and sing. Even the modern efficiency of a humming bandsaw acts to safely draw out the venom of everyday life and deliver the partaker to paradise.

There is always hearty sustenance to be had for the body, mind, and soul in Savaneta. Good times, good people, and an old fashioned, simple way of life that still exists can be savored by all who choose to take the low and slow road. Enjoy the ride. Relax dockside and either be a player or spectator to the rhythm of life by the sea. Check for the catch of the day. Sit in on a game of dominoes. Shoot a game of pool. Go ahead, book a little quality time in the Fish Pit. Try a little Sunday morning coming down. Look over the reef at sunset and keep an eye out for a glimpse of the elusive emerald green sparkle as the sun dips below the horizon. Savaneta delivers satisfaction by providing all who want it with one sweet life, "un dushi bida."

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