|
|
Vintage
Carnival
By Tina Causey-Escobedo
Aruba's Carnaval parades are a fashion runway of costume couture. The island's handful of
costume designers dive deep within their creative selves to produce the season's brightest
stars on the streets, and devout Carnaval goers can easily spout off the most memorable
costumes of past years.
Fashion designer Ronchi de Cuba, creator of his own
clothing line, moonlights as a costume designer and has been sending his creations out on
the parade routes since 1989. "Carnaval parades are comprised of groups, with each
one having its own theme," says Ronchi. "...This year I was contracted by the
Champagne group to create a series of costumes for their 'diamond celebration'
theme."
Ronchi divides the design process into several stages.
"Usually a theme is decided about a year in |
|
Designer Renny Lacle used Aruban folklore as his inspiration for this costume (modeled by Jerianne Tiel) that was shown in Carnival 2001. Originally
designed for then Miss Universe Aruba Denise Balinge, Renny
incorporated ancient Indian symbols embroidered on the dress and
headpiece. The symbols, called hex signs, could be found framing
the homes of many Aruban doorways and were believed to ward off evil spirits. |
| advance. I play around with sketches by
starting with the floor members—the most basic and most numerous costumes in a group.
Then I expand the idea with the body pieces; these are the costumes that are enhanced with
extensions like shoulder pieces, waist pieces, and more extravagant accessories and
headpieces. Next, I work on the road pieces, which are pulled on wheels by costumed group
members. The last thing I design is the float, which usually functions as the finale of a
group. The float is sort of a melting pot of ideas derived from the group's theme,"
Ronchi explains. The last step for most designers is
placing the order for all the materials, about ninety percent of which, says Ronchi, come
out of New York. The process is then turned over to costume makers and seamstresses, with
the designer overseeing last-minute touchups and final approvals. However, some designers
never let go of the reins. "Andrew Curriel is without a doubt the island's top
costume designer," says Ronchi, "and he is meticulous about every detail,
staying involved in every phase of the production." |
|
 |
|
 |
|
 |
Our cover model, Mary Ann
Maduro,
shows off Edgar Kock's design inspired
by the warmth of Aruba's sun. It is shown
here with swimwear from Solo by Ronchi,
but the original costume was a one-piece
worn by Deyanira Frank, Miss Universe
Aruba 2002. |
|
Designer Andrew Curriel
premiered
his "X-Man" costume, modeled here by
Cedric Frans, as part of a futuristic space
heme in 2002. |
|
Kendrah Matthews models
Ronchi de Cuba's 2001 creation,
"Energy," inspired by the ambiance,
rhythm, and movement of Carnaval. |
Sometimes the designers hit their mark
perfectly, while other times their work is received with unpredictable response from the
parade crowds. Ronchi's favorite theme was a part of 2000's Carnaval. "I was working
for the Olympus Carnaval group and the theme was Greek mythology. That is the only year I
followed the entire process from start to finish, even building the road pieces and floats
out back in my workshop. It was exhausting but memorable." Likewise, there are years
that midway through the process, a designer feels unsure about a design but can't turn
back. "In 1995, I was working on a ‘Cirque du Soleil’ theme. I simply hated
the costume I designed for the Carnaval queen representing Oranjestad. But wouldn't you
know, it won ‘Best Costume’ and the group won ‘Best Show’ that
year!"
 |
|
 |
|
 |
"I think of
the costume's creative process as a journey," says designer Ronchi de Cuba. "It
starts with the feet,
travels up to the ankle pieces, follows to the midsection, the
wrist accessories, and climaxes with the drama of the headpiece." |
Each Carnaval is exciting and unique in its
own way, yet one thing is certain—the island's designers will continue to outdo last
year's themes and leave their own creative mark on each season.
 |
|
 |
|
 |
These boots are made for
walking—but
try walking a four-mile parade route in these!
Ronchi's rule of thumb with the feet:
"If the costume carries down past the knees
with details, the footwear should be subtle.
If the legs are bare, then go ‘Bang!'
with the shoes.” |
|
Another Curriel creation,
this
"Green Forest Amazonia" was part of
an Amazon Jungle theme
from Carnaval in 1999.
|
|
Andrew Curriel's "Zebra
Warrior" debuted
in Carnival 2002. It is modeled here
by Emmanuel Fernandez.
|
Photography by Steve Keith
|
